Eight Hour Layover in Narita
In the Airport
On my way from Palau to Bangkok, I had an 8 hour layover in Narita, Japan. As such, I took the opportunity to check out the city, a 10 minute train ride from the airport. As many mentioned on TripAdvisor, it was worth a visit. Despite the reviews, I wasn’t exactly sure what to expect of the city. Would it be close enough to the airport, that with all the visitors, English would be prominent? Or would it be so small that Japanese would be the only language?
I was quickly finding out, that even in the airport, English was broken at best. I asked the volunteer to point me in the direction of the ATM. She responded, “ATM Machine?…I don’t speak English”. She reaches for her binder, turns toward the page with the ATM machine question, and points at the answer. I could only wonder how I was going to make it on the train and around Narita given the extra data plan I had paid for with AT&T wasn’t working. So much for a map!
On the Train to Narita
Luckily the information desk at the airport had a map. In addition, I asked the ticket lady what stop Narita was on the Keisei Line. This proved important since there wasn’t a map or announcements on the train! It was the second stop.
My next challenge quickly presented to me when I exited the station. I didn’t know whether I was facing north, south, east, or west. Furthermore, I couldn’t read any of the street signs. My paper map was useless.
I turned toward a young lady, sitting on her suitcase and engrossed in her smart phone. “Which way is the temple,” I asked. She couldn’t explain the directions, but she grabbed her suitcase, waved for me to follow her, walked me to the stoplight. Pointing down the street to the right she said, “That way.”
The Streets of Narita
Well, that was easy enough. I followed the quaint street lined with restaurants and small shops selling dresses, souvenirs, kids clothing, and purses.
Hungry, I eyed the restaurants more than the shops. I picked a restaurant filled with several locals. I figured I couldn’t go wrong. Unagi Restaurant was open to the street with chefs seated at tables in the front. They were trimming sea creatures…eel.
Eel was the only option on the menu! So as a result, I had broiled eel with rice. I sat in the front room in a chair at a table and kept my shoes on. If I really wanted to be authentic, I could have removed my shoes and sat on the floor in the back room. I’m sure the locals appreciated the tourists leaving them alone!
Naritasan Kongo-oin Shinshoji Temple
From the restaurant, I walked to the temple complex. As I skipped up the stairs, I passed past a water fountain and “trough” to the right that a family was standing around. The mom waved me down and pointed me toward the fountain.
Evidently I was supposed to rinse my hands in the water and then drink from it. I washed my hands, but refrained from drinking it, and then proceeded to wander through the temple complex.
The image of Fudomyoo is the main deity of the Naritasan Kongo-oin Shinshoji Temple and belongs to the Chisan Sect of Shingon. It is considered extremely valuable because Kobou Daishi, the founder of Shingon, himself carved, consecrated, and conducted a Goma rite upon the direct order of Emperor Saga.
The image was originally enshrined at the Takaosan Jingoji Temple in Kyoto, but during a revolt in 939, the great monk Kancho carried the image to the Kanto region. At Narita, in the Shimousa region, Kancho offered a Goma rite prayer for peace lasting 21 days.
On the final day of the prayer, the revolt suppressed and after this Naritasan was founded and named Shinshoji. If that sounded as greek (or Japanese) to you as it sounds to me, it is because I basically paraphrased an English pamphlet I received at the temple’s information desk.
Other Buildings in the Complex
While I could continue with tidbits about several of the ornate buildings in the complex, “google” or Wikipedia would better serve you. The buildings I visited included: Korinkaku Hall, Shoro (Bell Tower), Issaikyozo (All Scriptures House), Shotokutaishido Hall, Three-storied Pagoda, Komyodo Hall, Shakado Hall, Niomon Gate, Gakudo Hall, and the Great Pagoda of Peace.
The Gardens
In addition to all thes temples, the complex includes lovely gardens. Paths wend beneath the cover of trees and past statues and even a waterfall.
Ceremony
After I wandered through the gardens, following the signs in Japanese, I ended up on the other side of the complex. Here, a Goma (sacred fire rite) was taking place. During the ceremony, the head monk burns earthy passions represented by wood sticks called Goma in the fire of Fudomyoo’s wisdom. He prays with the devotees for their wish to be ennobled and purified for fulfillment. The ceremony is a daily service at Naritasan. It was neat to be a bystander!
Tourist Info and English in Narita
From the temple, I decided to retrace my steps to the airport. Unfortunately, I wasn’t sure if the international terminal was terminal 1 or 2. Upon arrival, we were simply directed to the domestic terminal. I meant to ask before I left the airport, but forgot. Hopeful that the ladies who worked at the temple information desk encountered enough tourists to speak English, I asked them. No English there.
Oddly, I found a tourist information office as I was walking back. The door was locked. A young man quickly responded, “It’s closed”. An English phrase…I’ll ask him…nope. As soon as I asked a question, his English dried up! No English in Narita!
There was another information center by the JR rail station which was two blocks from the Keisei station. I gave it a try. Hooray! The woman working the booth spoke English and knew the terminal. It didn’t matter whether it was domestic or international flight, it only mattered the which airline.
Back on the Train from Narita
I took the JR train back, it was slightly cheaper and took a few minutes longer than the Keisei line. The woman told me I could just purchase a ticket from the automated machine…yeah, right…it was in Japanese! I had to ask the ticket taker at the station to tap the screen for me to get the ticket. At least this train had announcements in English. It was a nice afternoon in Narita. Now I’m preparing myself for busy Bangkok! ETB
PS…I was slightly entertained by the large difference of toilets…the stand-over urinal pit at the temple to a toilet complete with a bidet at the airport! Oh, and I was in Japan, so they shouldn’t have to know English, but they are so smart, I thought they probably would!
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Way to go. Beth! Loved this adventure. Brought back fond memories of Japan.