The next stop on our nine-day G-Adventure Tour of Vietnam was in Ha Long Bay. Ha Long Bay is a dramatic, ancient seascape where nearly 2,000 limestone pillars rise from emerald waters like a “rock wonder in the sky”. Sculpted over 500 million years by tectonic shifts and marine erosion, this UNESCO World Heritage site is a maze of hidden caves, secluded lagoons, and floating villages that preserve a unique maritime heritage.
Having only seen some Instagrammable moments showcasing the natural beauty of Ha Long Bay, I was very excited to visit the area. While I expected some tourism, I was dismayed to find a boat highway in Ha Long Bay, rather than tranquility among the towering karst islands!
While I am glad I visited Ha Long Bay in person and checked it off my bucket list, I must advise nature lovers who don’t mind missing the iconic sites to look for quieter cruises in Bai Tu Long Bay or Lan Ha Bay or otherwise be prepared for lots of tourists.
On the Way to Ha Long Bay
That said, below outlines the typical overnight experience in Ha Long Bay. First, we took three hour journey our private tour bus from Hanoi to Ha Long Bay. Always with a compulsory stop along the way, we visited the Hong Ngoc Fine Art Center in Chi Linh.
The center was established to employee lesser abled people who have suffered deformities from the agent orange chemical used in the Vietnam War. It features lovely tapestries, jewelry, sculptures, and a food market all at an inflated price, as well as a free toilet. Some of the pieces were quite nice, and it is great to see the disabled people given an opportunity.
Ha Long Bay Overnight Cruise
After a short visit, we continued our journey to Tuan Chau International Marina, the largest hub on Ha Long Bay and from which most cruises depart. We arrived around lunchtime along with many other tour buses.
There are roughly 200 licensed overnight cruise ships and 500 tourist vessels, of which 300 are day boats that focus on 4-8 hour sightseeing routes. The boats range from the traditional wooden junk boat to a modern luxury ship.
While the luxury ship certainly offers more comfort, the traditional junk boat, modeled after 14th-century Chinese sailing vessels provides heritage and intimacy. Though it is tempting to use the English definition in describing the “junk” boat, the word is actually Javanese in origin…Jong means ship or large vessel.
Our group waited for about an hour at port before we loaded on a large wooden dinghy that steered us to our junk boat moored in the harbor. The boat featured downstairs cabins with ensuite bathrooms, an upstairs salon and bar, and a third-floor observation deck.
Upon boarding, we immediately set sail beneath cloudy skies and enjoyed a tasty lunch with many authentic dishes. All drinks, including water, were not included and carried a price tag of 4x more than normal. Additionally, plastic water bottles from the mainland were banned. Basically, this is how the junk boat makes its money.
Our route followed the other 200 boats (that honk just like they do on scooters) past many islands to an area with three main attractions: a cave, a viewpoint, and a kayaking cove. The misty weather, common in March, created an ethereal atmosphere. Based on the 24-hour rainy forecast, we participated in the kayaking activity first.
Kayaking in Ha Long Bay
Seeing as how we were on a hiking, biking, and kayaking trip in Vietnam, I expected to be kayaking around the islands for a few hours like we did in Palau. My expectations were way off! We, along with 100 other tourists, strapped on life vests, selected a paddle, and loaded in the kayak. Following instructions, we paddled through the Luan Cave to the cove, looked for the monkeys, and returned in 15 minutes!
If you didn’t want to paddle yourself, you could join a bigger oar boat operated by a guide. Beware! Just as with driving in Vietnam, no one stops. You just go and dodge. One oar boat T-boned a kayaking pair which nearly flipped! Fortunately, Lee Ann and I out maneuvered the chaos and enjoyed watching the monkeys play on the shoreline and cliffs.
Iconic View in Ha Long Bay
After our fifteen-minute jaunt in the kayaks, we returned to the tender and crossed the bay to Titop Island which features Ha Long Bay’s most iconic view. Our “hike” was a 400-step climb with 1,000 of our closest friends. I mumbled under my breath, “this is my worst nightmare.” To which Rob questioned, “Are you afraid of heights?”
I said, “No. I’m not fond of climbing man-made stairs crowded with people to a fogged in viewpoint. There is nothing natural about it!” Regardless, I survived, got my token photo, and later rested on the crescent beach as we waited to be picked up. There is a bar on the beach, so it is possible to buy an overpriced beverage here too!
A Night of Karaoke
Back on the junk boat, we freshened up for a nice dinner and a super fun night of Karaoke!! Amazingly, with a group of seven Brits, an Italian that lives in Dubai, three Canadians, and a few Americans, everyone knew all the words to Country Roads by John Denver! With that lead off song, I thought for sure other country classics like The Gambler by Kenny Rogers or I’ve Got Friends in Low Places by Garth Brooks would be just as popular…nope!!
Rules required we turn the mic and speakers off at 10pm, but that didn’t shut down the party. I’m certain we were one of the most fun boats in the bay. We had a great night!
Once we finally headed to bed, I learned that the A/C which is only turned on at nighttime didn’t work in my room. The most helpful and friendly staff took apart the unit and jammed a screwdriver into the wires until it turned on. There was no control for the temperature, and upon seeing the exposed wires, I took a moment to plan my escape route!
We never had a safety briefing, but I found my stored life vest, tested my window, and guesstimated I could swim to the nearest boat quite easily. This was one time I was grateful to see a surrounded by a fleet of tourist vessels. Tucked between the islands with their night lights shining through a shroud in fog made it a mystical sight to see too!
Surprise Cave
Though it was a warm night, we all awoke in one piece to a somewhat sunny day, contrary to the forecast! After breakfast, we concluded our time in Ha Long Bay exploring Sung Sot Cave (Surprise Cave).
This is a large cavern with many stalactite and stalagmite formations. I like caves, so I enjoyed it, though with so many beautiful caves in the USA, I wouldn’t make Surprise Cave a must-see destination in Vietnam. However, if you’ve never been to a cave like this, it would be exciting.
After our cave tour which wasn’t as crowded as our afternoon activities yesterday, we joined the super highway of boats back to the harbor to spend our final night in Hanoi. While I enjoyed sailing in the natural beauty of Ha Long Bay and appreciated the friendly culture, next time I’d do a little more research in order to manage my expectations! ETB
Like It? Pin It!
