Continuing on our hiking journey through the Dolomites in comfort, we took the bus from San Vigilio to Rifugio Pederu which serves as a strategic hub for hikers embarking on the renowned Alta Via 1 trail. Located in Italy’s Fanes-Sennes-Brais Natural Park, the mountain guesthouse was once a military camp and officer barracks for the Austro-Hungarian Imperial Army during World War I. Here we began our 12-mile hike to San Cassiano or St. Kassian.
Just about everything in the South Tyrol area as three names due to the three languages spoken in the area: Italian, Ladin, or German. The route is very well marked with the classic red and white trail markers and the blue Alta Via 1 Triangle painted on trees, rocks and fences as well as with many signposts designating distances and pointing the way.
Alta Via 1 – Route 7
We followed route 7 across the Valle di Rudo basin, a scree bowl formed by glacial melt. Soon it ascends a steep switchback trail to Valun de Fanes, an upper hanging valley.
As much as I loved all the dramatic views of massive dolomite rock, I must admit being miffed by all the nicely maintained roads. At times, I felt like we could have driven the whole way!
That said, we had ample opportunities to snap photos of the magnificent landscape as we made our way to Ucia de Pices Fanes. This small mountain hut was the first of many places that served refreshments about 3-4 miles into the journey. A little further along the way is a trail intersection. We could go left to Rifguio Fanes (on our route) or go right to see a lake.
Given we weren’t terribly hungry, we veered right with grand expectations to see a picturesque mountain lake. Unfortunately, it was more like a small, marshy pond! Feeling slightly disappointed, we didn’t walk to the far shore where Ucia Lavarella sat tucked in the green valley. Little did we know Ucia Lavarella boasts the highest brewery in the Dolomites! While we aren’t drinkers, but don’t miss out if you want to knock back a cold one.
Lunch at Rifugio Fanes
Back on track, we stopped at Rifugio Fanes for an early lunch as we wished to experience the Ladin culture and South Tyrolean food. Consequently, we found a seat on the wooden deck and scanned the menu while enjoying the view.
After a few questions, we thought we were ordering a cold speck and cheese sandwich, as we wanted something quick. That is almost what we received. It was open-faced. We had to laugh because we thought a different option on the menu was open faced! Anyway, during our time in the Dolomites, we were constantly surprised by our food orders. At least we didn’t have to lug our food and water with us like we would have had to while hiking in the Rockies!
Alta Via 1 – Trail 11
The rifugio was filling up hungry hikers as we headed out and connected to trail 11 and ascended to Passo di Limo affording panoramic views of Sassa della Croce and the smooth inclined slabs of the Lavinores. Soon we dropped down to Lago di Limo and made another short climb past abandoned military barracks and WWII trenches.
Within 30 minutes or so, we stumbled across another mountain hut. This time is was a family run dairy farm called Utia de Gran Fanes. We wished this place had been on our map provided MacsAdventure who coordinated all of our transfers as we reached it closer to lunch time!
Oh well, our journey continued across a magnificent plateau where cows grazed beneath towering peaks, and a few hearty wildflowers popped up by the rocky trail. This wide-open space known as Passo Tageda is breathtaking! My only word of caution is be careful if you drink a lot of water at lunch and have a small bladder! Things to hide behind are hard to come by.
Descent to San Cassiano
There are a few trail junctions on the way, and after about eight miles in, we left the Alta Via 1 route and descended to San Cassiano for our stay in comfort. Initially, the trail drops steeply down manmade, natural stone steps to Capanna Alpina. After our steep descent to San Vigilio and our steep descent to Capanna Alpina, we were beginning to wonder if this trip was really hiking in comfort. It would have been easier on our legs to just stay in the mountain huts rather than hotels in town!!
From Capanna Alpina, that has a large parking lot for cars, we crossed the river, stopped in the Chapel Sciare, and continued along a path that somewhat followed the roadway. At this point, we probably should have grabbed the bus into town as the last few miles were dull with the exception of a view of St. Kassian, but being purists, we wanted to complete the trail!
In all, this 12-mile hike on the Alta Via 1 from Pederu to San Cassiano was quite beautiful! ETB
