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Day 1 – Traveling the Talimena Scenic Byway

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Day 1 of a Year Long Road Trip Along America’s Scenic Byways


Nine hours and 260 miles later I have arrived at my campsite for the night in Queen Wilhelmena State Park in the Ouachita Mountains.  What a day!  My mom, Bart and Gabby wished me goodbye around 8 this morning, and I spent the rest of the morning driving to Talihina (Indian for iron road), Oklahoma (Indian for red people) to start my first scenic drive, the Talimena Scenic Byway.  Long drives are always good for random thoughts, interesting radio shows, and unique billboards to say the least.

To get to Talihina, I had to drive toward Bonham, TX, a former public finance client.  That was a work reminder…YIKES – no work thoughts allowed!  Now retired from 12 years of public finance investment banking, I’m off on a year long journey.  The work of financing hospitals probably also made me notice the billboard for a hospital in Paris, TX that said the guaranteed wait time for the ER was ONLY 30 minutes!!  If you’re hurt and it’s not life threatening, go there…even with the drive time you could still get seen faster than most places in the metroplex – haha.

Now to the good stuff.  The drive through Oklahoma, despite the rain and fog was still beautiful…grassy fields, rolling hills, countless creeks and rivers, and mountains. While only 2,700 feet high, they looked much grander (when I could see them) due to the vistas.

Old Military Road in Ouachita National Forest

My first real stop after getting some help at the Ouachita National Forest Visitor Center was Old Military Road, normally a popular picnic site with trails and this historic marker pictured below.  Given the weekday and rain, no one was there except mowers, and an older gentleman by the name of Logan Brown who has been coming to the Ouachita Mountains every year (sometimes twice a year) since 1966.  After that, there were numerous vistas.  The ridge tops are covered with “dwarf” mature oaks whose growth is stunted from the cold winds and ice in the winter.

I made a promise to myself before I started out on this journey to stop and take a picture when I passed scenic turnouts since I’ve never previoualy stopped.  This promise has resulted in 20 turnouts in less than 50 miles!  We’ll see how long that lasts, especially since, many of the views were cloud covered.  I paralled the Ouachita mountain range that uniquely runs east/west, unusual for this continent as most follow a north/south direction, to my next stop Horsethief Spring.

Horsethief Spring

Horsethief Spring, according to Reader’s Digest got its name from horse trafficking in the 1800’s.  Horses were smuggled from the Ouachita Mountains to Texas.  The bandits’ activities were so blatant that the route was dubbed Horsethief Trail and the watering hole where they camped – Horsethief Spring.

Finally I decided to go for a hike.  The folks manning the Visitor’s Center clued me in on a short loop called Mountain Top Trail.  I figured that would be better than setting out on the 192 mile Ouachita National Recreation Trail.

I think the hardest it rained all day was the 45 mintues the dogs and I went hiking.  I briefly thought about geocaching, but it was just too wet, and Petey’s face said, I want back in VANilla!  If it weren’t the first day, I probably wouldn’t have been so gung ho to walk in the deluge.  At least the shower washed the bug grave yard off the front of my van and forced me to pull in early and learn camper van techniques.  So far everything is taking about 3 times longer…which container is the flashlight in…where are my cotton balls?


I crossed into Arkansas before settling on the campgrounds at Queen Wilhelmina State Park .  The lodge where you check in is named for the original structure built by investors from the Netherlands in 1898.  According to Reader’s Digest, the investors had hoped if they named the hotel after the queen, then Queen Wilhelmina would come visit.  She never came, and the hotel failed a few years later.  Off to Hot Springs, Arkansas tomorrow where I will begin the Scenic Highway 7 drive.  ETB

Map of My Road Trip Across the USA

For a summary about my road trip across the USA, click HERE. For the interactive map, see the below link.

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Check out the photographic note cards and key chains at my shop.  Each card has a travel story associated with it.  20% of proceeds are donated to charity.

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Beth Bankhead

Former public finance professional turned award winning travel blogger and photographer sharing the earth's beauty one word and image at a time.

15 thoughts on “Day 1 – Traveling the Talimena Scenic Byway

  1. Hi Beth, your photos are good loved the one of your dogs…so far so good….rain is good for the soul….happy trails diane

  2. Congrats on day one!!! Sounds like you had fun, and I loved seeing your photos!

    After 9 hours and 2 plane rides we finally made it to Missoula, Montana — minus one checked bag! Grateful it’s not the one with my clothes, but I have no jammies, no toothbrush, and no makeup!!!! Might have to hit Wakmart in the a.m.
    So I’ve had an adventure today as well.

    Glad you arrive safe and sound at your first campsite! Love your blog! Safe travels.

    xo’s Mom

  3. Did you know your great grandmother’s name was Wilhelmena? I’m sure you remember that PaPa grew up in Paris, Tx! Two interesting coincidences on your first day out!

  4. Loved the pics of Scout and Petey. Two wet dogs and a VW van. Fun! Have a great time from your friends on Lilac Lane.

  5. Sounds like a great start to your adventures! I enjoy the history you are sharing along the way. And wet dog smell in your van on day 1 made my laugh a little. Isabelle & Willie would be so jealous!

  6. Beth,

    I love your first day…love what you are doing. I have sent your blog to all my kids, hoping that they will be able to “couch” you in San Diego or Massachusetts. I don’t think you will be headed my way, but the offer is always there.

    Keep on.


  7. Wow, what a first day! Hope you found your flashlight. By the way, I’ve been singing that song all day long. Thanks….can’t get it out of my head. Just glad it wasn’t Yankee Doodle Dandy or something like that. ;o)

  8. So excited you are on your way. I am looking forward to keeping up with your travels. Stay safe!!


  9. Hey Beth, I am so happy for you living out this adventure and dream in life. Lance and I are planning a 2 year sabbatical as we keep calling it the summer after Holliday graduates from high school. We may need to get some pointers from you.

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