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Day 119 – Kansas East and West Part 2

Day 119 of a Year Long Road Trip Along America’s Scenic Byways

Dodge City

Given I had heard of Dodge City but not Council Grove, I expected Dodge City to have significantly more historic sites. I have to say, Council Grove’s tour provides a much better depiction of the Wild West, despite Dodge City’s acquired nicknames including Wickedest Little City in America, Buffalo Capital of the World, and Queen of the Cowtowns.

We started the morning out at Daylight Donuts. It looked like a local place, and it was busy. Most of the tables inside were filled, there was a line at the counter, and a line at the drive through. The “Chocolate Butterfly” was popular choice among fellow patrons, so I ordered one of those, a standard glazed, and a cup of coffee to go. My breakfast packed so many calories that I wasn’t even hungry again until almost 4 p.m., and I generally graze several times a day!

ON THE ROAD AGAIN!

Day 117 – Flint Hills Highlights

Day 117 of a Year Long Road Trip Along America’s Scenic Byways

Today seemed incredibly busy. I hardly know where to begin. OK, how about this morning. After a restless night at Wal-Mart, Petey and I went for coffee and oatmeal at McDonald’s. I’m not sure why sleep escaped me last night, as I was exhausted. Perhaps I started out a little hot, and it was a little bright and noisy in the parking lot relative to yesterday’s campground. On the plus side, my internet connection was MUCH faster and I got to pick up a few provisions before we took a three hour drive to El Dorado, Kansas.

ON THE ROAD AGAIN!

Day 116 – Cherokee Country Part 2

Day 116 of a Year Long Road Trip Along America’s Scenic Byways

What a glorious and educational day! With the morning calm, the lake’s choppy waters turned so smooth that the mirror like surface reflected images of the dam and spillway in the glistening sun. We spent a leisurely morning at the campground boiling water for coffee and oatmeal and just enjoying the peace of birds chirping and woodpeckers tapping on trees. It was one of the first mornings on my entire adventure that I wasn’t baking hot, freezing cold, or waving mosquitoes away! It was definitely a day for a lawn chair and sunglasses.

ON THE ROAD AGAIN!

Day 115 – Cherokee Country

Day 115 of a Year Long Road Trip Along America’s Scenic Byways

I set off from Dallas for the third time since beginning my road trip last September. My mom asked, “Do you want me to take a picture of you leaving again?” I figured that drill has been captured, so Petey and I left without smiling for the camera. I had to re-route my trip in order to keep some confirmed dates with friends and to stay out of the cold as much as possible this upcoming fall.

It took me almost four hours to reach Gore, Oklahoma, the beginning of our new journey. I must admit, it was a lonely drive. For the last several weeks during my father’s illness and ultimate death, I have been surrounded by friends and family. Many times I had breakfast, lunch, and dinner plans all on the same day.

ON THE ROAD AGAIN!

Day 113 – Returning Home Through New Mexico

Day 103 of a Year Long Road Trip Along America’s Scenic Byways

With my road trip on hold due to my father’s illness, today I made up my own scenic drive while traveling over 350 miles in a round about way toward home. My first stop was Roswell, NM. I had planned to visit the UFO museum; however, after visiting www.tripadvisor.com, most visitors were disappointed because the museum only exhibited pictures and newspaper articles of the 1947 incident. On the other hand, everyone seemed to love the Alien Zone, so I decided I’d read about the 1947 “alien sighting” on Wikipedia and visit this store full of alien merchandise and displays.

ON THE ROAD AGAIN!

Day 111 – Arizona’s Apache Trail Part 2

Day 111 of a Year Long Road Trip Along America’s Scenic Byways

The Apache and Coronado Trails

Petey and I awoke this morning to sporadic sprinkles on the Apache Trail. We hit the road early as the weather forecast called for rain all day near Phoenix and snow on Sunday on the Coronado Trail which was my next scenic drive. The Coronado Trail is sometimes closed from Alpine to Morenci, thus given the weather, I sped up my travels a bit to visit at least half the trail today.

ON THE ROAD AGAIN!

Day 107 – New Mexico’s Scenic South Part 2

Day 107 of a Year Long Road Trip Along America’s Scenic Byways

In yesterday’s post I left out some interesting sights by mistake or they were at least interesting sights to me after driving hours at a time. Little things go a long way. The highway paralleled a train track. As I passed by the trains, I noticed most of the cars were tagged, I believe that is the new word for graffiti. I thought to myself, why wouldn’t the train company clean those cars, but then, it made it kind of interesting to look at all the cars as I passed the graffiti like art work.

A few minutes later I passed a poor man on a bicycle loaded downs with bags, on the handles, in the back, everywhere. He was going about three miles per hour. I think that is about as slow as a bicycle can go without tilting over. I hope he didn’t have to ride far on the side of the highway as vehicles sped by him and dogs chased him!

ON THE ROAD AGAIN!

Day 106 – New Mexico’s Scenic South

Day 106 of a Year Long Road Trip Along America’s Scenic Byways

Outside of a few Valentine’s Day wishes from some friends and family, today was rather uneventful. I spent the morning traveling from Alpine to Las Cruces, New Mexico. This was a time when I wished I had my Z4! An open road, a posted speed limit of 80, and I’m putting along at 75, OUCH! I could go 80, but VANilla gets a little noisy with vibrating action. I have to put the volume on my iPod on high just to hear it.

Mesilla, New Mexico

Tim suggested I visit Mesilla, just on the outskirts of Las Cruces, so Petey and I took a short walk around the town square. The smell of authentic Mexican food permeated the air from the famous restaurant, La Posta. My stomach grumbled, “stop in for cheese enchiladas”. My brain thought my stomach might be a little too sensitive for them, and it prevailed.

One of the buildings on the square, now a gift shop, used to be the county courthouse, jail, and school. It was here that Billy the Kid was tried and sentenced to hang on April 13, 1881. He was taken back to the courthouse in Lincoln where he escaped and later met his death at the hands of one of Dona Ana’s sheriffs, Pat Garrett.

After our brief visit to Mesilla, Petey and I hopped back in VANilla and headed north toward Ruidoso. We tried to make a stop at the Organ Mountain Recreation Area to see Dripping Springs Natural Area named for a cliffside that seeps water, but we were not successful in finding it. We found an area called Aguirre Springs in the vicinity, but it seemed confusing, so we carried on. I have been fighting either horrific allergies from the West Texas dust or a slight head cold, so that may have added to the complications and my lackadaisical attitude toward finding the area.

White Sands Missile Range

Our drive took us past White Sand Missile Range. A Nike Hercules Missile display towered beside the road as we climbed the pass. The Nike Hercules Missile stands 41 feet tall and is 31.5 inches in diameter. The missile weighs over 10,000 pounds and can reach speeds in excess of 2,500 miles per hour. It can travel 75 miles and reach an altitude of almost 30 miles high. The missile was tested at the White Sand Missile Range from 1955 through 1967 and was tasked with shooting down enemy aircraft and ballistic missiles. When the Nike Zeus system was designed, the Hercules missiles were used as targets!

Lincoln National Forest

After a brief stop at the missile display, Petey and I ventured to Lincoln National Forest in hopes to hike. First, we stopped at the Tunnel Vista for a view of the mountains and the desert basin. We spent most of our time here dealing with an owner who was oblivious to her off leash dog. Normally, it wouldn’t bother me, but Petey takes a little time to warm up to other canines. I politely warned the woman who corralled Rosie only to let her slip away a few minutes later. Thankfully, she decided to get up from her nap on the overlook ledge, collect Rosie, and continue on her journey. I’m not sure I’d choose to nap between a ledge and a winding highway while letting my dog run loose!

It seemed as though most of the Lincoln National Forest entrances around Cloudcroft were closed and the only one that was open was for cross-country ski trails which wasn’t too enticing to a Texan in tennis shoes. We just wound through the mountainous forest and pulled in for an early evening at the Wal-Mart in Ruidoso Downs. I’d have to categorize today as a “do-over”: a lot of driving and no hikes. Tomorrow is another day. ETB

Map of My Road Trip Across the USA

For a summary about my road trip across the USA, click HERE. For the interactive map, see the below link.

map of road trip along scenic byways across the USA — Interactive Link to Map

Shop

Check out the photographic note cards and key chains at my shop. Each card has a travel story associated with it. 20% of proceeds are donated to charity.

photographic note card, great spangle fritillary butterfly — GREAT SPANGLED FRITILLARY

Day 105 – Big Bend and Beyond Part 3

Day 105 of a Year Long Road Trip Along America’s Scenic Byways

I heard the bakery next to the hotel in Lajitas baked great pastries, so I tried stopping in before heading west along the US/Mexico border. Unfortunately they were closed, but the hotel was nice enough to let me snag a cup of coffee from the lobby.

Big Bend Ranch State Park

Our first stop along the Rio Grande River was at the abandoned Contrabando Movie Set in Big Bend Ranch State Park. Just like Big Bend National Park, Big Bend Ranch State Park is enormous. It stretches nearly 40 miles on both sides of 170, known to the locals as the “River Road”.

The set was constructed in 1985 for the western comedy “Uphill All The Way” starring Roy Clark, Mel Tillis, and Burl Ives. Since that time, six other movies have been filmed here: Rio Diablo, Gambler V: Playing for Keeps, Streets of Laredo, My Maria (1996 Music Video of the Year), Dead Man’s Walk, and The Journeyman.

The set was situated between the road and the Rio Grande River. Across the river is Mexico. I found myself tentatively walking up to each building hoping I didn’t run across a drug operation or something. I kept telling myself, don’t be so ridiculous, no one would operate 30 yards from the road, but that’s what the media does to people. It instills fear when it reports tourists killed by drug cartels in the mountains surrounding the border. Thankfully, I only stumbled upon a few empty beer cans.

Hoodoos in Big Bend Ranch State Park

Petey and I continued on to Hoodoos or Balancing Rock, another stop in the Big Bend Ranch State Park. On the way we passed a rest area complete with picnic tables shaded by teepees. I thought it was funny, so I took a picture. I don’t have any details on Hoodoos other than it was interesting looking and it also rested on the US/Mexico border.

hoodoos in big bend ranch state park — Mexico on right

Armed with my bear mace (like that will protect me from a Mexican druglord) I walked up to the vista and then down along the trail to the river while Petey slowly

followed. I think his hip was bothering him, thus he lacked enthusiasm. We also climbed over a few rocks in hopes of capturing some unique pictures, but instead I managed to slip, fall on my camera, and get a few lackluster photos. That wasn’t a very exciting moment of my day.

Fort Leaton State Historic Site

After our brief stop at Hoodoos, we kept heading west toward Presidio and made a stop at Fort Leaton State Historic Site. In 1773, the Spanish garrison at Presidio Del Norte (present day Ojinaga, Mexico) established El Fortin De San Jose to protect farmers in the vicinity. The post was later abandoned.

Around 1810, Ben Leaton purchased extensive property in the area and by 1848 the community became known as Fort Leaton. Ben Leaton was a ruthless trader and as such earned nicknames such as scalp-hunter, desperado, and un mal hombre (a bad man).

IMG_6184 I wonder what this person thinks

While visiting the fort, I noticed a car in the parking lot with a giant political slur taped across its back window along with American flags pasted on every window on the vehicle. For some reason, the sight just made me giggle, so I took a picture. By no means am I trying to portray any political opinions in this post.

I think I found the image funny because there is no way I would spend my time or money to express my political views on my car or at my house like this individual did. I think it invites conflict, and I’m not interested in getting my car or house egged. Though I suspect the centerpiece creates quite a bit of conversation too. There was no mistaking what this individual believed!

Shafter Ghost Town

Petey and I pressed on to Presidio and turned north toward Shafter, a ghost town, but once dubbed “the richest acre in Texas” due to the millions of dollars of silver extracted from its mines. Veins of the precious metal still run through the surrounding hills. On the way to Shafter we spotted a few pronghorn and even caught a glimpse of “Lincoln’s profile” on a nearby mountain. A sign pointed to the mountain, otherwise I wouldn’t have noticed it.

Marfa, Texas

We stopped briefly in Marfa to snap a quick photo of the courthouse. I planned on returning to Marfa later in the evening to view the Marfa lights, but after I researched the mystery surrounding the lights, it sounded to me like they are reflections from car headlights and campfires. It wasn’t intriguing enough for me to make the forty mile round trip from Alpine where I had a place to stay, thanks to my friend Molly.

Alpine, Texas

She put me in touch with her ex-husband Tim, who I had only met once, since I can only keep up with Molly about every three years or so. He just rented a house in Alpine one week ago! It was basically a historic adobe house with two small bedrooms, a bath, and a kitchen.

Unfortunately, Alpine, along with the rest of the country suffered a hard freeze last week and the pipes burst. Tim only lives here part-time and was able to fix about half the pipes before having to leave for work in Pecos this evening, so I met him in the late afternoon so he could show me the ropes.

He also gave me a quick tour of Alpine. He pointed out the coffee shop, local book store, the University, and a few restaurants including Reata. Really, the same Reata (upscale southwestern cuisine) that is in Fort Worth, Texas!!! I couldn’t believe it.

It was so nice of Tim to hand over the keys to his home. I failed to snap his picture before he left, but he is a New Hampshire boy turned Texan, donning a Cowboy hat and boots and loving the Big Bend area. Had I followed Molly’s instructions and called him on Saturday instead of Sunday, I could have been at a giant ranch party in Terlingua Saturday night!

That’s OK. I enjoyed my meal in Lajitas. I am bummed that I missed the Cookie Chilloff though. It is a spoof on the World Championship Chili Cookoff held every November in Terlingua. Per Reader’s Digest, I knew the Chilloff was held in early February, but I didn’t see any signs for it when I drove through town. Consequently, I thought I must have missed it. Tim informed me it was today! Oh well, my waistline doesn’t need any cookies or ice cream anyway. Petey and I relaxed for the evening in Alpine and prepared to leave Texas behind us in route to New Mexico tomorrow.

On a different note, my dad told me the WJ McDonald Observatory near Fort Davis is really neat. Visitors can peer through the only world-class telescope in America available to the public. Unfortunately, the light shows are Friday, Saturday, and Tuesday night, so I couldn’t make it. I will have to go back. I just wanted to mention it in case any of my readers plan on visiting Big Bend soon. ETB

Map of My Road Trip Across the USA

For a summary about my road trip across the USA, click HERE. For the interactive map, see the below link.

Shop

Check out the photographic note cards and key chains at my shop. Each card has a travel story associated with it. 20% of proceeds are donated to charity.

photographic note card, windmill in Texas — WINDMILL

Day 103 – Big Bend and Beyond

Day 103 of a Year Long Road Trip Along America’s Scenic Byways

Today was absolutely magnificent. Fort Davis and Big Bend exceeded every one of my expectations. My friends can attest, that this is a very rare occasion. I suppose it helped that I arrived with unusually low ones, due to a friend’s description of her trip. Additionally, the southwestern, desert-like landscape in other areas has never been that appealing to me, thus I didn’t expect the Big Bend area to be any different. Perhaps it’s just because I’m proud to be a Texan, and any Texas landscape will do despite the appearance!

Fort Davis National Historic Site

I took away one important piece of information from my conversation with the “full-timer” yesterday. Big Bend National Park doesn’t allow dogs on the trails, but he was uncertain about Fort Davis. This tidbit was enough to make me stop at the Fort Davis National Historic Site just to see if pets were allowed.

Most forts I’ve been to don’t allow dogs, so I figured it would be a long shot, but since “full-timer” didn’t recall seeing it posted I clung to hope. Surprisingly, Petey was allowed on the trails and in all areas of the fort except inside the buildings. We enjoyed an outstanding visit and I’m certain Petey enjoyed a walk that wasn’t restricted to the parking lot.

The original fort was established on the eastern side of the Davis Mountains in 1854 and named after Secretary of War Jefferson Davis. From 1854 to 1861 troops of the Eighth Infantry led by Lt. Col. Washington Seawell protected emigrants, freighters, mail coaches, and travelers on the San Antonio-El Paso Road from attacking Comanches, Kiowas, and Apaches.

Upon the outbreak of the Civil War and Texas’s secession from the Union, the federal government evacuated the fort. The fort was briefly occupied by Confederate soldiers before Union forces took possession in 1862. Thereafter, the Union troops abandoned the post and the fort lay deserted for the next five years.

Few of the structures remained in 1867 when the Ninth U.S. Calvary reoccupied Fort Davis. From 1869 through the 1880s, several new buildings were constructed, and the fort became a mainstay to over 400 soldiers. The soldiers continued providing safeguards to travelers along the dangerous San Antonio – El Paso Road and finally forced the Apaches and their leader Victorio into Mexico where they were killed by Mexican military. The end of the Indian Wars in West Texas combined with the army’s effort to consolidate its forces, left Fort Davis abandoned for the final time.

Today, visitors can see ruins of the first fort and restored buildings of the second fort. The combination of the two forts is quite intriguing. The new houses align to magnetic north, while the old foundation outlines align to true north. A good view of this is on the interpretive nature trail which travels into the mountains above the fort.

The weathered rocks towering over Fort Davis are lava flow known as rhyolite porphyry from 25-65 million years ago. The reddish stone used in the construction of the buildings was quarried from the Davis Mountains.

view of fort davis national historic site from above

Ranch Home Historic Site

After an awesome tour of Fort Davis and a beautiful hike in the mountains above, Petey and I continued toward Big Bend National Park. On the way, we stopped at a few historical markers. The first was the site of a ranch home owned by Manuel Musquiz, a pioneer who settled in the area in 1854.

Abandoned due to Indian raids, the deserted buildings served as a ranger station intermittently during late 1880’s while the country defended itself against Indians and bandits. While at this spot, I happened upon a herd of approximately thirty elk. One big male with at least 14 points was definitely a trophy for hunters. Knowing most of my hunting friends put in for tags in Montana, I was surprised to see elk here.

elk on the way to Big Bend National Park

Los Caballos

Our next roadside stop was at Los Caballos where rocks in the Ouachita Fold Belt uplifted approximately 275 million years ago. The folding is shown by the whitish rocks known as caballos. The Ouachita Fold is similar in age to the uplift that formed the Appalachians.

Big Bend National Park

We finally reached Big Bend National Park, entering through the Persimmon Gap entrance. Cacti peppered the rocky plains surrounded by the Chisos Mountains and the Boquillas Canyon. The views were astounding. I was in awe of the grandeur and beauty of Big Bend. I pulled off the road countless times to snap photos before arriving at Rio Grande Village to camp for the night.

As I rounded the camp grounds to choose a spot, I passed by a coyote. I decided to tell the Ranger, who basically smiled and laughed saying, “They’re everywhere”. Hmmm, I didn’t want them to eat Petey, so we took cover in VANilla for a bit.

coyote at Rio Grand Village in Big Bend National Park

I found another camper with a dog and asked what they planned to do with their dog since the rules say dogs can’t be left unattended or in a vehicle. They seemed to think vehicle living was safe as it wasn’t hot. Shortly thereafter, the volunteer hosts came by in their golf cart. They confirmed Petey would be fine in VANilla and suggested I explore the nearby interpretive nature trail.

As it was nearing dusk, I asked, “Is it it safe given we are in mountain lion and bear territory?”

The hosts assured me. “The mountain lions are in Chiso Basin, not in Rio Grande Village, and near sunset is the best time to go.”

view from trail at rio grande village in big bend national park

Oh were they right! I made it just in time to see the Boquillas Canyon cliffs turn crimson in the sunset. In addition, the wetlands and river views were mystical. The landscape offered an array of colors: yellow grasslands, green trees, dark grey and red mountains. What a treat! Too bad Petey couldn’t join me! ETB

Map of My Road Trip Across the USA

For a summary about my road trip across the USA, click HERE. For the interactive map, see the below link.

Shop

Check out the photographic note cards and key chains at my shop. Each card has a travel story associated with it. 20% of proceeds are donated to charity.

Day 119 of a Year Long Road Trip Along America’s Scenic Byways

Dodge City

Day 117 of a Year Long Road Trip Along America’s Scenic Byways

Day 116 of a Year Long Road Trip Along America’s Scenic Byways

Day 115 of a Year Long Road Trip Along America’s Scenic Byways

Day 103 of a Year Long Road Trip Along America’s Scenic Byways

Day 111 of a Year Long Road Trip Along America’s Scenic Byways

The Apache and Coronado Trails

Day 107 of a Year Long Road Trip Along America’s Scenic Byways

Day 106 of a Year Long Road Trip Along America’s Scenic Byways

Mesilla, New Mexico

White Sands Missile Range

Lincoln National Forest

Map of My Road Trip Across the USA

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Day 105 of a Year Long Road Trip Along America’s Scenic Byways

Big Bend Ranch State Park

Hoodoos in Big Bend Ranch State Park

Fort Leaton State Historic Site

Shafter Ghost Town

Marfa, Texas

Alpine, Texas

Map of My Road Trip Across the USA

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Day 103 of a Year Long Road Trip Along America’s Scenic Byways

Fort Davis National Historic Site

Ranch Home Historic Site

Los Caballos

Big Bend National Park

Map of My Road Trip Across the USA

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