Cusco, a UNSECO World Heritage Site, is situated at 11,152 feet high in the Andes Mountains of Peru. Once the capital of the Inca Empire, Cusco is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the Western Hemisphere.
The bustling, mountain city of 500,000, features remarkable Inca stonework dating back to the 13th century as well as beautiful colonial architecture from the Spanish conquest in the 16th century.
Being the gateway to Machu Picchu, one of the Seven Modern Wonders of the World, Cusco attracts millions of tourists a year. It’s history and culture, gastronomic delights, and tremendous natural landscape afford tourists many things to do in Cusco.
Plan at least three days to acclimate to the high altitude and explore the city and Sacred Valley. Add more time for visiting Machu Picchu and hiking through the spectacular terrain.
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Where to Stay in Cusco
Cusco is a hilly city in high elevation. Consequently, walking from one neighborhood to another can be taxing for some individuals. I recommend staying in the area that is most conducive to the places you want to visit.
Locations near the historic and vibrant square, Plaza de Armas (or Plaza Mayor on Google), are the most popular. Book early for a reasonable rate. A local tour company recommended to me the four-star Wyndham Costa del Sol Cusco.
The conveniently located hotel was once a 17th century colonial mansion that features a lovely courtyard. The well-trained staff ensures a comfortable stay. And the restaurant presents and excellent morning buffet that starts before most tour departures!
A three-star hotel across from the famous Qorikancha in Santo Domingo is the Abittare Hotel. The quaint facilities are new and well decorated. While the rooms are small, they are clean and refreshing. Though the breakfast buffet is simple relative to the Wyndham, it has what you need.
Though across from the most important Inca structure in Cusco, the Sun Temple or Qorikancha, at the top of the hill, it is in a quieter area. One of the best restaurants in Cusco is located across the street too.
Where to Eat in Cusco
I have to say, some of my most memorable meals in my life have been in Peru (both good and bad). Chull’s was definitely my favorite dinner destination in Santo Domingo, Cusco. It features contemporary Peruvian cuisine from the high country which is plated like culinary art. It serves craft beers and a variety of Pisco cocktails too. Don’t miss trying a Pisco Sour, Peru’s national drink.
Another excellent and popular restaurant in Santo Domingo for breakfast and lunch is Qura. The cute upstairs café serves breakfast all day. With a coffee shop vibe and extremely healthy and fresh ingredients, you can’t go wrong with this place. The arepas with eggs anyway, guacamole, black beans, and fried cheese are outstanding!
About ½ mile away from Santo Domingo, and just a block off the Plaza de Armas, Kushka is a lovely option for a nice meal. I love when the chef provides an amuse-bouche. It sounds fancy, I know, but the prices are reasonable in Peru compared to the USA.
When in the artsy area of San Blas, stop in the eclectic Llama Café. Open all day, it features indoor and outdoor seating and an extensive breakfast, crepe, and sandwich menu.
Things to Do in Cusco
As I mentioned previously, Cusco is hilly, so walking between neighborhoods at high elevation can be tiring. As a result, I recommend planning your day by area. Most attractions in Cusco may be found near the Plaza de Armas (or Plaza Mayor in Google), in San Blas, or in Santo Domingo which creates a triangle. You can explore all of these areas in two or three days depending on your pace and interests.
Attractions in San Blas
Attractions in San Blas include the Twelve-Angled stone, San Blas viewpoint, as well as a variety of cafes, bars, galleries, and souvenir shops. And of course there is always a church and museum.
Already on a hill, from San Blas visit the attractions on the outskirts of town which require more climbing…the aqueduct, Cristo Blanco, and Saqsaywaman. While wandering up the eclectic cobblestone streets, appreciate the amazing views and corners of culture displaying colorful flags and flowers.
Twelve-Angled Stone
The Twelve-Angled Stone is an example of the Inca’s advanced stonework. The perfectly cut stone is located in the wall of the Archbishop’s palace. A site of pride among the locals and a popular tourist attraction, ensures a few people will always be hovering around to point it out.
The San Blas Viewpoint
The San Blas viewpoint sits above the San Blas Plazoleta and provides a panoramic view of Cusco that is extra special at sunset.
Sapantiana Aqueduct
From San Blas, head northwest up the hill to the Sapantiana Aqueduct, constructed by the Jesuits in the 18th or 19th century from the stones of the Sapantiana Chapel. Today, there is only a trace of water, but I always find it cool to see a multi-level structure of arches.
Cristo Blanco
Continue up the hill to Cristo Blanco, a large statue of Jesus Christ similar to that of Rio’s Christ the Redeemer, only on a smaller scale. The 26-foot, white structure was gift from Arabic Palestinians who sought refuge in Cusco after World War II.
Cristo Blanco rests atop Pukamoqo Hill, a spiritual location for the Incas, which affords a panoramic view of Cusco. At nighttime, it is lit up in bright colors.
Saqsayhuman
Just a 10-minute walk from Cristo Blanco is Saqsayhuman, an Inca archaeological site. There is a fee to enter which you may pay for individually in soles at the entrance. But if you plan on exploring more than three historic sites while visiting Cusco and the Sacred Valley, I recommend buying the Boleto Turistico. While the cathedrals are not on it, many of the Sacred Valley sites are, and the day tours from Cusco do not include the entrance ticket. The Boleto Turistico lasts ten days and pays for itself quickly.
Saqsayhuman was a fortress or a temple. No one knows for sure, though most historians believe it was a shrine. The ancient site includes a large open plain lined by a three-tiered wall. The wall includes some of the largest stones at any Inca archaeological site. Some measure 29.5 feet tall and weigh over 200 tons.
The mastery of the Inca stonework is simply incredible. Each piece fits together without mortar and so closely that a match book can’t even fit between stones. While I didn’t find this ruin as interesting as those in the Sacred Valley, it’s worth a visit if you don’t have time to explore the surrounding area.
You may hire a guide at the entrance or stroll the site, which stretches over four football fields, on your own. As I wandered around, I met a travel blogger from Australia who was traveling around South America with his family for at least three months.
You gotta love the Australians. They are so adventurous. A couple with three young children, the oldest couldn’t have been more than six were biking, busing, and camping their way around the continent. Lots of my friends consider me an adventurer, but people like this remind me that I’m closer to a tourist! I’m all about taxis and hotels when I’m not hiking or immersed in culture. Check out their adventures at Swagfamily.au.
Mirador de San Cristobal
After visiting Saqsayhuman, drop down to Mirador de San Cristobal. This viewpoint offers sweeping views of Cusco. If you have worked up an appetite, there are several cafes and restaurants perched above the Plaza de Armas (or Plaza Mayor on Google), so weave your way down the hill toward the city center and take your pick of a relaxing place to eat or drink, because it won’t be relaxing once you get to the square.
Cusco City Center and the Plaza de Armas
The Plaza de Armas is swarming with tourists and locals selling shoeshines, massages, sunglasses, food, art, and all kinds of other things. I was perplexed when a gentleman wanted to shine my tennis shoes?!?
It would be a miracle to sit on a bench and people watch for more than two minutes without someone approaching you. At least that is how it was at midday on a weekend. Fortunately, the sellers are respectful and leave with a polite “no gracias” response.
That said, the Plaza de Armas, is a vibrant square surrounded by shops, restaurants, cafes, tour companies, colonial architecture, and two historic religious buildings…the Cusco Cathedral and Church of the Company of Jesus.
Cusco Cathedral and the Church of the Company of Jesus
The Cusco Cathedral was built on top of an Inca temple by the Spanish in the 16th century. It is home to many important artifacts including the crucifix brought to Cusco by the Spanish conquerors. The Church of the Company of Jesus was once the Palace of Huayna Capac. It features Peru’s largest altar, carved of cedar wood and gold leaf plated. Out of respect for the worshippers, visiting hours are limited at these churches, so time your entry when you plan on strolling around the Plaza de Armas.
Festivals in Cusco
Also, ask your hotel or tour operator about Cusco’s festivals. There are festivals practically every weekend in the summer. Locals dress in their colorful costumes and parade through the square for a few hours.
While I visited in one week in July, I saw three parades…two vibrant festivals on consecutive Saturdays and a military parade on the first Sunday of the month. The military parade includes public workers and school children.
I can’t imagine what the big festivals are like because these weekly festivals had plenty of pomp and circumstance. Some of the biggest festivals in Cusco are Carnivals, Easter, Corpus Christi, Inti Raymi, Christmas, and New Years.
Museums and Markets in Cusco
While in the historic city center of Cusco, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, be sure to explore the side streets. You find smaller, quiet plazas lined with vendor stalls selling their wares, some nice restaurants and a few museums. Many of the museums are included on the aforementioned tourist ticket.
As with any Spanish city, you can’t miss the market. For that matter, markets in any developing country are one of my favorite places to visit. Cusco’s Mercado Central de San Pedro is more permanent and not as chaotic as others I’ve been too, but nonetheless it includes clothing, food, and gifts. A great place to capture culture in photography, it is worth the 10-minute walk to the southwest of the Plaza Mayor.
Santo Domingo and Qorikancha
Last but not least, be sure to make it the Santo Domingo neighborhood. Qorikancha, spelled many different ways, was the temple where Incas worshipped Inti, the Sun God. It was so sacred to the Incas, that it was the only temple that existed only for religious ceremonies.
As with many of the other Inca sites in Peru, the Spanish destroyed it and constructed the Santo Domingo Church on its foundation. Visitors may hire a guide outside the structure to learn the culture significance of this site.
Take a Side Trip
While there is enough to keep you busy for three days in Cusco, some of the most impressive Inca sites and magnificent landscapes are a side trip away. Don’t miss hiking to Rainbow Mountain, touring the Sacred Valley, exploring Moray and the Maras salt mines, and of course visiting the iconic Machu Picchu.
Also, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention there are several other beautiful hiking trails in the area such as the Seven Lakes of Ausangate and the Humantay Lake Hike which is part of the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu. Get Your Guide and Viator are great resources for many things to do in Cusco.
Once again, please be aware of the high altitude. It is very important to acclimate. ETB
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Wonderful post and a trip down memory lane for me.
Thank you! It has changed a lot since the last time I was there 15 years ago! Beautiful country!!
This is a great list for a city that I’ve always wanted to visit. Hopefully one day soon I’ll put your list to good use 🙂
Oh wow what a great guide, I didn’t know there was so much to see and do in Cusco. The cathedral looks beautiful, and the festivals look like such a unique experience.
It was a lot busier than I remembered from 15 years ago! A lot to do now
it is best place i wanna visit there once !